Q & A:
- What does your current quiver consist of?
I’ve been traveling for a year straight so my quiver consists of two board bags. 7’0 single fin, 2) 6’2 19 1/8 2 3/8 thrusters, 6’2 Akila Twinnie, step up 6’6 thruster, 10 foot log for when its tiny, an Alaia and a 6 foot no stringer displacement hull for the odd point break:) The Pipe quiver waits at home.
- Barreling sand bar beach break OR long ripable point break?
Always gotta go with the Barrel!
- Do you have an ultimate end goal? Where do you see yourself as on old timer?
Watch my kids grow up and start their own family’s. I want to be able to look back and still have with my integrity intact. I see myself in New Zealand in a tree house sipping on some Chai watching the Ocean with my Wife right next to me, that sounds nice:)
- Bucket list items?
Be a better Father/Husband/Son/Friend/ Person. Oh yea.. A thirty second barrel doesn’t sound to bad either.
- What’s a typical day at home like for you?
Wake up with the kids, usually around 6 or so. Make them a big bowl of oatmeal and then go and see what the Ocean looks like. If it’s nice conditions we’ll probably go down to the beach for the morning and get the kids in the water. At around 11 we head home to put the kids down for there naps. They sleep for about two hours, this is our time to relax and be productive. I might go for a quick surf or work on our tree house. Daize will most likely get the house in order for the rascals when they wake up. After Nap we eat lunch and play around the yard picking fruit and building things. Dinner comes quick then bed time for the kids around 7:30-8. Then mom and I have a cup of tea hang out for a bit and head to bed ourselves. Everything happens so fast, gotta just focus on the moment.